The city of Verona is magical. There really is no other word I can use to describe it. The traditional cobblestone streets wind through the old city, polished with the millions of footprints of those who walked before. It’s the most iconic love story in history that lures travellers to this quaint Italian city, but it’s the beauty and atmosphere that really makes it memorable.

The entire centre of Verona is surrounded by the Adige River which gushes with water at a force fast enough to go rafting on. Inside the walls of the river is a city bursting with the beauty of the old while brimming with the life of the new.

It is by far my most favourite city in all of Italy, and to enjoy it you must do as the Veronans do. Here’s what I learnt while I lived there for 6 weeks in May 2017.

Must see + do

Hire a bike for your whole trip and ride everywhere
Visit Juliet’s house and place your hand on her breast for luck in love
Write a letter to Juliet and post it on the wall in her garden
Watch the Opera in the Arena
See a concert at the Roman Theatre
Climb the stairs to the top of Castel San Pietro to see all of Verona
Have apertivo in Piazza Erbe and watch the fashionable people swan about
Take a photo on Ponte Pietra
Hire a car and drive to Lake Garda and spend the day swimming (best done in summer)

Bars

Osteria ai Portegheti is by far one of my favourite bars in Verona. It’s on the other side of the Adige River and is frequented by uni students and locals. Drinks are cheap and the atmosphere is cheery. Perch yourself on the steps outside and snack on a bowl of crisps while drinking a glass of Lugana (regional white wine) or the classic, Aperol Spritz.

Also on the other side of the river is the new bar, Academia. Run by bar-vetran, Davide, Academia is set to become Verona’s new apertivo hot spot with locals.

Where to eat

For Pizza head to Pizzeria da Salvatore which is right next door to Portegheti. They get very busy but are definitely worth the wait. Best advice- go there first, put your name on the list and grab a drink next door to wait. My favourite is the buffala- simple yet delicious. Pair it with a beer (don’t drink wine with pizza- it’s a faux pax) and gobble it down. You may even find yourself ordering an extra pizza to take with you.

If you’re a fan of traditional Napolitano pizza then head to Due de Coppe. Their pizzas have a thick fluffy base and crust, and they have a variety of weird and wonderful flavours. Due de Coppe also has the best salad in Verona (in my opinion). Order the tuna salad an add buffalo mozzarella and you won’t be disappointed- it’s huge!

For a fancier dinner involving more than just pizza then head to Quattro Cuoco di Locanda just near the Arena. It is one of Giancarlo Perbellini’s restaurants (he’s pretty famous around here) and the food doesn’t disappoint. It’s fine dining, so expect the prices to match.

For dessert there is no question that the BEST gelato in Verona is found at Gelato Romana. It’s away from the hustle of the centre and pretty much has a line out the door all day. Grab a grande conno (large cone) with ciocolatto bianca (runny white chocolate) and scoops of Crema and noiccolata.

Where to stay

I stayed pretty budget friendly while here. I spent most of my time staying in a school campus called Don Bosco. I had a special deal of 20 euros per night and it suit me perfectly. Certainly not fancy, but I had my own bathroom, wifi and it is in a fantastic location. If you want something a bit swankier then I recommend any of these.

Hotel Antica Porta Leona & Spa

Hotel Milano & SPA***S